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Post by travillion on Mar 13, 2023 13:14:40 GMT -5
Just completed my first attempt at grafting. I made 20 chip bud grafts on 10 trees. The rootstock are sour orange seedlings I've been growing for the last 15 months. I think the seedlings were mature enough for chip budding, but the budwood I received from my local jurisdiction was bigger diameter. As a result, the chip buds were usually a little wider than the incision on the rootstock. I angled my chips to increase the likelihood of cambium overlapping. So as a result, there is *hopefully* cambium overlap but also portions of the chip bud that fall outside the rootstock incision.
My question is, do the chip buds need to fit "inside" the rootstock cuts to heal properly, or is it possible some of these can still take as long as the cambium overlaps and they are wrapped tightly?
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Post by pagnr on Mar 15, 2023 1:34:49 GMT -5
It is possible for chip bids to be smaller than the rootstock, and matched on one side. It is also possible for chip buds to be shorter than the rootstock cut and matched at the top. Not sure about your question, if there was some green layer matching and callus growth was active it may work ? Is it possible to make less deep cuts on the bud wood to get smaller buds. You made need a different blade ? Is it possible to make deeper cuts into the rootstock to get a better match. Need to be careful not to compromise the stock by cutting too deep.
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Post by travillion on Mar 15, 2023 15:38:33 GMT -5
I guess what I'm saying is that the chip bud goes beyond the rootstock incision in places. I know when the cut is bigger than the chip bud, the rootstock will callous over. I don't know what happens when parts of the chip bud go beyond the incision and touch uncut rootstock. Is that an automatic fail or can it still heal?
I worries about making deeper cuts on the rootstock because I don't want to risk compromising its integrity. I tried to cut thin budwood but I worried I would damage the bud if I cut too shallow. How far into the wood does the bud grow?
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Post by pagnr on Mar 16, 2023 6:00:00 GMT -5
I am not to sure as I always tried to avoid that happening. Have tried peeling the wood from inside the bud, it is a known method but not sure I have got it to work well. Also I have tried trimming the sides of the bud to make it narrower. A razor blade can be better for cutting very small buds, the old type double sided square types, or scalpel blades. But watch your fingers. www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=tolleys+micro+budding&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
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Post by Sylvain on Mar 16, 2023 8:48:58 GMT -5
To call this "Microchip Budding" means he never had to graft microcitrus! Diameter about one millimetre.
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Post by travillion on Mar 16, 2023 12:24:30 GMT -5
My hope is that the budwood not in contact with the rootstock incision will just die and flake off, while the budwood in contact with the incision will bond and any open incision will heal.
I was hoping this was a common situation, but it looks like it is not. I will just be patient while I wait and see....
In all likelihood, I'll have to try again next year when my rootstock is bigger.
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Post by poncirusguy on Mar 16, 2023 23:21:59 GMT -5
My scion was 5 times the diameter of my rootstock and I got a good graft
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Post by pagnr on Mar 17, 2023 3:27:22 GMT -5
It is most common to match the two green sides on a chip bud. It is also possible to match on one side only. With a T bud, the green strips on the bud end up flat on the stock, and the rootstock green inner bark layer just contacts the edge when the bud is tied in. If the callous growth on your work is active, it may achieve contact ?
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Post by travillion on Mar 19, 2023 0:54:30 GMT -5
I snuck a peek at a few of them today. It was hard to see through the several layers of parafilm, but it looked like the buds were still green. I'm not getting my hopes up. It's only been one week. But still, to not see black was encouraging....
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