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Post by fructose on Oct 27, 2020 10:05:42 GMT -5
Hi everyone:
I just have NO luck with poncirus seeds. I can get almost every other seed (citrus or not) I plant to germinate but the several times I've tried with poncirus they seem to get a white mold and die early. I don't keep them in anything particularly moist or cold.
Do they need to be stratified?
I once got some yuzu seeds from tradewinds and asked why they were dry: the representative said it was due to stratification. Those seeds popped up despite my intial doubt. Perhaps I'm making a beginner's mistake somewhere as I am new to this.
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Post by ilya11 on Oct 27, 2020 11:06:32 GMT -5
No, poncirus seeds do not need stratification.
How do you germinate them- in pots or in plastic bags? Are they from the fruits harvested by you or purchased?
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kumin
Full Member
SE Pennsylvania, 45 miles north of Chesapeake Bay, Zone 6b
Posts: 113
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Post by kumin on Oct 27, 2020 11:41:07 GMT -5
What type of substrate are you using? Additionally, is the germination area sanitary?
Excessive moisture, low temperature and very high temperatures are also unfavorable germination conditions. Ideal temperature is between 77°F and 85°F for Poncirus. Citrus does best at 86°F. These temperatures are optimal for Citrus, but a bit higher than optimal for common damping-off fungus.
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Post by fructose on Oct 27, 2020 12:56:06 GMT -5
No, poncirus seeds do not need stratification.
How do you germinate them- in pots or in plastic bags? Are they from the fruits harvested by you or purchased?
I purchased them, they came in a bag. They had dried out in transit but I don't know if long enough to kill them. Normally I put them in moist coco-coir. Maybe I should try the bag method? What type of substrate are you using? Additionally, is the germination area sanitary? Excessive moisture, low temperature and very high temperatures are also unfavorable germination conditions. Ideal temperature is between 77°F and 85°F for Poncirus. Citrus does best at 86°F. These temperatures are optimal for Citrus, but a bit higher than optimal for common damping-off fungus. Maybe this is the issue: I normally put them on a heating pad. |
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kumin
Full Member
SE Pennsylvania, 45 miles north of Chesapeake Bay, Zone 6b
Posts: 113
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Post by kumin on Oct 27, 2020 13:45:41 GMT -5
Poncirus seed should be stored and shipped with the surface dry, unless stratified, in which case they should be in a small amount of slightly moist media. The media must be free of pathogens.
Best storage conditions are with seed surface dry, but seeds plump and not dehydrated in refrigerated, but not freezing conditions. Germination percentage will decline over several months, making it necessary to increase the planting density to compensate.
Upon receiving seed, I suggest taking a few immediately and doing a test under ideal conditions. If the seeds have been surface dried, I soak them for 24 hours at 86°F in a dilute sodium hypochlorite solution at 20 drops of 6% bleach per gallon of water. Change the water solution at 6-8 hour intervals. Don't drink the solution, as it's triple the recommended drinking dosage.
By precisely recording the steps you used for a successful germination test, you should be able to replicate it with a larger quantity of seeds.
Upon seedling emergence it's helpful to provide adequate light to the seedlings as they emerge. This will initiate the production of chlorophyll, which has protective properties against damping-off. I leave the lights on 24 hours per day until the sprouting seedlings have passed through this very vulnerable stage. As the stems become tougher, they gradually get increasingly resistant and don't require constant light. Under optimal conditions, some of these steps are overkill, but prevention is much better than attempting to correct a disease outbreak.
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Post by fructose on Oct 27, 2020 16:56:15 GMT -5
Poncirus seed should be stored and shipped with the surface dry, unless stratified, in which case they should be in a small amount of slightly moist media. The media must be free of pathogens. Best storage conditions are with seed surface dry, but seeds plump and not dehydrated in refrigerated, but not freezing conditions. Germination percentage will decline over several months, making it necessary to increase the planting density to compensate. Upon receiving seed, I suggest taking a few immediately and doing a test under ideal conditions. If the seeds have been surface dried, I soak them for 24 hours at 86°F in a dilute sodium hypochlorite solution at 20 drops of 6% bleach per gallon of water. Change the water solution at 6-8 hour intervals. Don't drink the solution, as it's triple the recommended drinking dosage. By precisely recording the steps you used for a successful germination test, you should be able to replicate it with a larger quantity of seeds. Upon seedling emergence it's helpful to provide adequate light to the seedlings as they emerge. This will initiate the production of chlorophyll, which has protective properties against damping-off. I leave the lights on 24 hours per day until the sprouting seedlings have passed through this very vulnerable stage. As the stems become tougher, they gradually get increasingly resistant and don't require constant light. Under optimal conditions, some of these steps are overkill, but prevention is much better than attempting to correct a disease outbreak. Thank you!! Hopefully something will spout from this bunch but either way I will definitely save this information for later  |
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Post by Laaz on Oct 27, 2020 17:53:53 GMT -5
I always plant them in a community pot using regular miracle-gro garden soil. Keep the pot moist not wet. I never use a heating mat. Fruits I miss that fall from the tree sprout in clumps the following spring.
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Post by Sylvain on Oct 27, 2020 18:03:00 GMT -5
There is a much simpler way with 100% success, even a little more. You sow the seeds outside in the ground. You forget them and in the spring a forest is growing.
The seeds are made to resist water, any cold and any fungus.
At the place of each fallen fruit you find in the spring a wreath of seedlins! What ever was the weather in the winter.
This is the only way I use for PT.
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Post by fructose on Oct 27, 2020 23:07:22 GMT -5
There is a much simpler way with 100% success, even a little more. You sow the seeds outside in the ground. You forget them and in the spring a forest is growing. The seeds are made to resist water, any cold and any fungus. At the place of each fallen fruit you find in the spring a wreath of seedlins! What ever was the weather in the winter. This is the only way I use for PT. Sounds good, I couldn't do it with the direct ground here as I'm primarily on heavy red clay  Thanks for the advice everyone! I split the seeds in two and planted two batches and took one off the heating map. Pray they come up  |
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