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Post by franklazar26 on Oct 30, 2019 16:20:10 GMT -5
Looking for any type of budwood for micrografting. It will be my first attempt ever trying grafting! I want to create my own dwarfed trees. Let me know if anyone has for sale!
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Post by speedyturtle on Oct 30, 2019 17:19:21 GMT -5
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Post by franklazar26 on Oct 30, 2019 21:34:44 GMT -5
Oh I'm in wisconsin, so I dont believe there's anything about receiving budwood here haha. |
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brian
Full Member
Pennsylvania zone6 w/ heated greenhouse
Posts: 158
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Post by brian on Oct 30, 2019 22:11:15 GMT -5
Do you already have rootstock (flying dragon?) to graft onto??
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Post by franklazar26 on Oct 31, 2019 7:01:46 GMT -5
Do you already have rootstock (flying dragon?) to graft onto?? I have one from a year ago, as well as about 32 seedlings almost ready for micrografting and I wanted to try a type of cleft grafting. |
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Post by david on Oct 31, 2019 8:29:58 GMT -5
Hi Frank
Are you set up for micrografting? It takes specialized equipment, material and a created environment to do micrografting. I do not have the set up but love the thought. Standard rootstock and budwood are probably not going to facilitate a micro grafting attempt. Its late for budding as poncirus/FD are deciduous and in my zone (9) have gone to dormancy. Chip budding and cleft grafting are still doable.....but unless you are willing to take the steps to protect over the winter it becomes tiresome. Forcing fall chip buds and cleft grafts is a process also. At times in fall one finds slipping bark on some rootstocks.....but again best practice dictates that standard budding be done in the Spring. One needs to have some degree of success at his first budding attempt in order to gain a degree of self satisfaction. Welcome to the forum. Lots of good advice here.
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Post by franklazar26 on Oct 31, 2019 9:17:52 GMT -5
Hi Frank Are you set up for micrografting? It takes specialized equipment, material and a created environment to do micrografting. I do not have the set up but love the thought. Standard rootstock and budwood are probably not going to facilitate a micro grafting attempt. Its late for budding as poncirus/FD are deciduous and in my zone (9) have gone to dormancy. Chip budding and cleft grafting are still doable.....but unless you are willing to take the steps to protect over the winter it becomes tiresome. Forcing fall chip buds and cleft grafts is a process also. At times in fall one finds slipping bark on some rootstocks.....but again best practice dictates that standard budding be done in the Spring. One needs to have some degree of success at his first budding attempt in order to gain a degree of self satisfaction. Welcome to the forum. Lots of good advice here. Not personally but the university I attend here has all the equipment necessary! It's a blessing really haha. I have seedlings in a very regulated summer like environment with all of them still having active growth. In my apartment, I keep them in a nice little area. I keep temps around 78, 16 hours of full sun (Whosled panel around 1500 PAR), germination mats galore, etc. Being in wisconsin, we just got 3" of snow last night haha, I do not plan to let any of my trees go dormant till next fall. Doing a cleft graft would also work on seedlings as well correct? I would say they are around 6" in height and around 2-3mm in diameter. I've seen people grafting them very young like this and having a ton of success. I would like to practice on my swindle before I do my poncirus. Ultimate goal is having dwarf patio citrus to share with my family here in wisconsin! |
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Post by david on Oct 31, 2019 10:27:34 GMT -5
I hear that. If you are going to keep your rootstock in a state of constant growth I woul opt for a cleft grafting set to for my first attempts. Small rootstock in a growing state will work fine. I have sat at a bench, grafted very small rootstock in bare root mode, potted the grafted stock with a very high take rate. Small is doable. The reason for most folks to wait till rootstock to get what is called "grafting size" is: Using a grafting knife and parafilm is a whole lot easier and takes less time than smaller stock. Also I like to use rootstock that is larger so that a good root system is present and able to callous the graft, send the right nutrients to the new growth. Another consideration: on some cultivars of citrus, grafting when very small lets a vigorous citrus over grow the rootstock. At times I have seen some benching issues later in the life of the tree and I feel that it was from grafting small. Micrografting is a fine technology and for commercial production of liners can not be beat. If I were in your shoes.....I would report to the big box stores in your area and purchase a couple of citrus trees and use the available budwood to practice with. That would give you some "hands on" experience. Good luck with your endeavors.
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Post by franklazar26 on Oct 31, 2019 17:48:45 GMT -5
I hear that. If you are going to keep your rootstock in a state of constant growth I woul opt for a cleft grafting set to for my first attempts. Small rootstock in a growing state will work fine. I have sat at a bench, grafted very small rootstock in bare root mode, potted the grafted stock with a very high take rate. Small is doable. The reason for most folks to wait till rootstock to get what is called "grafting size" is: Using a grafting knife and parafilm is a whole lot easier and takes less time than smaller stock. Also I like to use rootstock that is larger so that a good root system is present and able to callous the graft, send the right nutrients to the new growth. Another consideration: on some cultivars of citrus, grafting when very small lets a vigorous citrus over grow the rootstock. At times I have seen some benching issues later in the life of the tree and I feel that it was from grafting small. Micrografting is a fine technology and for commercial production of liners can not be beat. If I were in your shoes.....I would report to the big box stores in your area and purchase a couple of citrus trees and use the available budwood to practice with. That would give you some "hands on" experience. Good luck with your endeavors. That was my other option with my small seedlings! I think I will try some of each. Thank you for the tips! I am very excited to even just attempt this, to see If they hold so I can just get some general practice in. Again I am in wisconsin so they must be potted their whole life, I want to dwarf them for sure to make them suitable for pots! The local nurseries actually dont ever sell dwarf citrus in my parts, I have to go much more south to receive any or purchase online for like triple the worth haha. Being wanting dwarfed trees, some I wish to bonsai even, I want to graft them small so I can train the branches and their shape. That's is my main thing, and I am impatient to wait 2 years to allow grafting size haha. Thank you for your wisdom! |
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